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Friday, December 5, 2025

INGS N-SPEC AERO BONNET FRP FOR HONDA CIVIC TYPE-R FD2 00149-00502

 

INGS N-SPEC AERO BONNET FRP FOR HONDA CIVIC TYPE-R FD2 00149-00502

INGS N-SPEC AERO BONNET FRP FOR HONDA CIVIC TYPE-R FD2 00149-00502

Here’s a summary of INGS N-SPEC AERO BONNET FRP FOR HONDA COVIC TYPE-R FD2 00149-00502— what it is, and what to check if you plan to buy / install it.


✅ What it is

  • This bonnet is part of the “INGS N-SPEC” aero kit lineup for the Honda Civic Type‑R FD2 (year 2007-2010).  
  • It is made of FRP (fiberglass-reinforced plastic) rather than full carbon.  
  • SKU / product code: 00149-00502.  
  • It comes with a duct cover included, and is “compatible with genuine striker.”  
  • This bonnet is part of a full aero-parts set from INGS (aero bonnet, bumpers, side-skirts, etc.) for the FD2 — so it’s meant to match other aero bodywork from the same brand.  

⚠️ What to check / know before buying / installing

  • Because it’s FRP (not full carbon), you may need to paint or finish it as desired. Most FRP aero bonnets are shipped unpainted.  
  • Fitment: It’s explicitly made for Civic Type-R FD2 — use on other cars may not fit correctly.  
  • Installation uses the OEM-style bonnet striker (so original latch works), but due to weight and aero-mod behavior, using a bonnet pin or double-checking latch is often recommended (especially for spirited or track use). While INGS doesn’t explicitly warn on their listing, other bonnet-swap manufacturers often give this warning. (For example, a similar bonnet by another manufacturer warns that although it supports the stock striker, a bonnet pin is recommended for sporty driving.)  
  • Because it’s from a JDM / Japanese parts supplier, shipping may involve extra cost, customs/import complications, and potentially long lead time (since many of these are “made-to-order” or low-volume parts). This is common with parts for older JDM cars sold overseas.  


🎯 Who it’s good for

This bonnet is best if you:

  • Own a genuine Civic Type-R FD2 and want to upgrade to a JDM-style aero bonnet.
  • Prefer FRP (lighter than stock steel bonnet, cheaper than carbon) and don’t mind painting or finishing it yourself.
  • Want to match other INGS aero body parts for a cohesive look.
  • Are aware of fitting precautions and may be occasionally track-driving (so will check the latch / use bonnet pin).


Thursday, December 4, 2025

A clear, no-nonsense roadmap to gain +100 hp on a Honda K20A Type R (DC5 / EP3 engine)

 

A clear, no-nonsense roadmap to gain +100 hp on a Honda K20A Type R (DC5 / EP3 engine)

A clear, no-nonsense roadmap to gain +100 hp on a Honda K20A Type R (DC5 / EP3 engine), including what parts are required, what power levels are realistic, and the cost/complexity level.



✅ TARGET: +100 HP GAIN for K20A (From ~220 hp to ~320–350+ hp

To gain 100 hp reliably, you have two realistic routes:


⚠️ ROUTE A: Stay NA — Very High Cost, Very High Effort

Goal NA Power: ~260–270 whp (≈ 310–330 hp crank)

This is about the MAX realistic for a pump-fuel NA K20A.

✔️ Required Major Mods

Component

Why Needed / Result

High-Compression Pistons (13.5:1 to 14:1)

More cylinder pressure at major NA power.

Longer Duration Cams (Skunk2 Ultra, Drag Cartel 3.2- 4.0, Toda Spec C)

Big top-end airflow.

Upgraded Valve Train

Prevent valve float at 9000- 9500rpm.

Ported / CNC K20A Head

Mandatory to hit >260whp.

Bigger Intake Manifold (RBC / RRC / Skunk2 Ultra Street)

Improves flow and velocity.

70- 74mm Throttle Body

Supports high-volume airflow.

Race Header + 3” Exhaust

Reduce all restriction.

K-Pro / Hondata ECU Tune

Precise timing + VTEC window.

E85 conversion (if available)

+10- 15 whp gain.



📈 Expected Output

  • 240–255whp (pump fuel)
  • 255–270whp (E85)
    ≈ 310–330 hp crank → about +90 to +110 hp over stock.


🧩 Complexity: ★★★★★ (Very High)

💸 Cost: RM 18k–35k++

NA build is expensive but gives brutal throttle response & reliability.


⚠️ ROUTE B: Turbocharge — Fastest, Easiest +100–150 HP Gain

The most common and cheapest way to add 100 hp.

✔️ Required Turbo Setup for +100 hp (300–350+ hp)

Component

Why Needed / Result

Turbo kit (GT28/GT30 or small GTX series)

Fast spool and safe power.

4-piston Turbo Manifold / Ramhorn

Reliable flow.

Front Mount Intercooler

Required to prevent heat soak.

440cc–1000cc Injectors

Depending on boost (7-“12psi).

255lph or Walbro 450 Pump

Fueling capacity.

3” Exhaust / Downpipe

Reduce backpressure.

Hondata K-Pro Tune

Proper timing/boost control.

Clutch upgrade

OEM will slip.

Optional — Oil Cooler

Recommended for Malaysian climate.


📈 Expected Output (Safe Street Setup)

  • 7 psi: 280–300 whp (≈ 350–380 hp crank)
  • 10–12 psi: 320–350 whp (≈ 400–430 hp crank)

This is +120 to +180 hp over stock with a mild, safe tune.


🧩 Complexity: ★★★☆☆

💸 Cost: RM 10k–20k depending on kit + tuning.


⚠️ ROUTE C: Supercharger — Easier Than Turbo, Less Peak HP


✔️ Mods

  • Rotrex Supercharger (C30/C38)
  • Fuel pump + injectors
  • 3” Exhaust
  • Hondata K-Pro


📈 Power

  • C30: 280–300whp
  • C38: 310–330whp

About +80–120 hp over stock.


🧩 Complexity: ★★★☆☆

💸 Cost: RM 15k–24k


⭐ FASTEST RULE OF THUMB FOR +100 HP

  • +100 hp NA: Very expensive, very technical
  • +100 hp Turbo: Cheapest & easiest
  • +100 hp Supercharged: Middle ground, smooth power delivery


🏁 Recommended for Daily + Weekend Track:

👉 Turbo 7–10 psi setup

320whp with reliability & low heat if intercooler + oil cooler installed.


Tuesday, December 2, 2025

TODA RACING INTAKE VTC CONTROL CAM SPROCKET FOR CIVIC TYPER INTEGRA TYPER ACCORD EUROR K20A 14210-K20-V40

 

TODA RACING INTAKE VTC CONTROL CAM SPROCKET FOR CIVIC TYPER INTEGRA TYPER ACCORD EUROR K20A 14210-K20-V40

TODA RACING INTAKE VTC CONTROL CAM SPROCKET FOR CIVIC TYPER INTEGRA TYPER ACCORD EUROR K20A 14210-K20-V40

Here’s a breakdown of what the TODA RACING Intake VTC Control Cam Sprocket 14210-K20-V40 is — and key things to know if you’re considering it for a K20A engine (e.g. on Honda Civic Type R / Acura Integra Type R / Honda Accord Euro R or other K-series builds).


🔧 What is the part & what it does

  • The part is a cam sprocket for the intake camshaft, specifically designed for K20A-series engines.  
  • It replaces the stock VTC (Variable Timing Control) sprocket, but instead of allowing full stock VTC range (~50° crank-angle advance), this part mechanically limits how far the intake cam can advance. For part V40, the limiter is 40°.  
  • Purpose: On tuned or modified engines (for example with high-lift cams or higher compression pistons), stock VTC + aggressive tuning sometimes risks valve-to-piston contact because the intake cam can advance too far under VTC control.  
  • By limiting cam advance with this sprocket, you retain the variable-timing benefit for improved low-rpm drivability / throttle response, while adding a safety margin to avoid clearance problems when running high-lift camshafts or compression upgrades.  


✅ When (and why) you might want this — especially given your background

If you are into performance cars, tuning and engine-building — this sprocket becomes interesting when you modify the engine beyond stock specs, especially when doing high-lift cams, increased compression, or any modification that reduces piston-to-valve clearance:

  • Helps keep VTC functionality (timing advance/retard) and good drivability, which is nice for street driving or mixed use (not just race/track).
  • Reduces risk of valve-to-piston interference on a tuned K20A — good insurance if you push the engine beyond stock specs.
  • Useful if you still want to retain some level of tuning flexibility, but don’t want to fully lock timing (as with a full “VTC-killer” gear).


⚠️ What to watch out for / what it doesn’t do

  • It doesn’t guarantee full safety — depending on your modifications (head milling, aftermarket cams, compression ratio, head gasket thickness), you still need to check actual valve-to-piston clearance manually.  
  • If you install very aggressive cams or “race-only” hardware, even limited cam advance might be risky — you may need even more conservative timing or fully locked gear.
  • It only addresses intake cam VTC. If you’re also changing exhaust cams or doing major head work, other clearances and valvetrain geometry still matter (springs, followers, head-work, maybe even ECU tuning).

TANABE COOLING PLATE FOR TOYOTA GR COROLLA GZEA14H CLPT4

 

TANABE COOLING PLATE FOR TOYOTA GR COROLLA GZEA14H CLPT4

TANABE COOLING PLATE FOR TOYOTA GR COROLLA GZEA14H CLPT4

TANABE COOLING PLATE FOR TOYOTA GR COROLLA GZEA14H CLPT4

TANABE COOLING PLATE FOR TOYOTA GR COROLLA GZEA14H CLPT4

Here’s a summary of what TANABE Cooling Plate CLPT4 (for Toyota GR Corolla GZEA14H) is — and what to know if you’re considering getting it. 

What is the Tanabe Cooling Plate CLPT4

  • The Tanabe cooling plate CLPT4 is a bolt-on replacement/upgrade for the OEM front cover / ducting panel on GR Corolla (GZEA14H, from 2022/12- onward).  
  • Its purpose is to improve engine-bay cooling & airflow management — especially important since the GR Corolla has a turbocharged engine, and turbo cars often suffer from elevated under-hood temperatures.  
  • How it works: Normally, air enters through the front grille and is channeled to left/right ducts. On the GR Corolla, the RH-side duct is blocked behind the grille (wind has no exit), so heat from components like the turbine/back of the engine can stagnate. The Tanabe plate reshapes that airflow — directing fresh air toward the turbine / rear engine area instead of letting it go wasted.  


🧰 Claimed Benefits

  • According to Tanabe and retailers, replacing the stock cover with the cooling plate can yield a temperature reduction of up to –19 °C in the engine bay vs. stock setup (compared to the OEM cooling plate).  
  • By improving airflow to critical areas (radiator, turbine, intercooler/radiator ducting), it helps reduce heat soak, maintain performance, and potentially prevent heat-related power loss during spirited driving or extended high-load conditions.  
  • It’s a vehicle-specific design: the plate is shaped and sized for GR Corolla GZEA14H (turbo, 4WD), so fitment and airflow paths are optimized rather than generic — which helps with efficacy and reliability.  


⚠️ Things To Know / Considerations

  • Because it modifies factory airflow paths behind the front grille, if you have an aftermarket cold-air intake or non-OEM airbox/ducting, the fitment or airflow optimization may be affected. Some sources advise verifying compatibility with your intake setup before ordering.  
  • Installation involves replacing/removing the OEM radiator-support opening cover; depending on local parts availability and shipping to Malaysia (since the part primarily ships from Japan/Asia-Europe/US), there may be extra freight cost or lead time.  
  • As with many cooling-airflow parts: real-world benefit may vary depending on ambient temperature, driving style (city vs spirited vs track), maintenance of other cooling/performance components (intercooler, radiator, intercooler piping, etc.).