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Tuesday, September 22, 2026

HKS CAPACITY UPGRADE KIT 3.4L KIT FOR TOYOTA 2JZ-GTE 21004-AT001

 

HKS CAPACITY UPGRADE KIT 3.4L KIT FOR TOYOTA 2JZ-GTE 21004-AT001

HKS CAPACITY UPGRADE KIT 3.4L KIT FOR TOYOTA 2JZ-GTE 21004-AT001

The HKS Capacity Upgrade Kit 3.4L for 2JZ-GTE (21004-AT001) is essentially a complete high-performance stroker bottom end

It doesn’t merely “increase the engine size”; it replaces the major rotating components so the 2JZ can make substantially more torque and support very high power. 

HKS developed it with drag racing in mind. 

What changes?

The stock 2JZ-GTE is approximately:

86 mm bore × 86 mm stroke = 2,997 cc

HKS changes it to:

87 mm bore × 94 mm stroke = 3,353 cc

So you get roughly 3.35 L, commonly called a 3.4L 2JZ

What’s inside the kit?

1. 87-mm forged pistons

The pistons use HKS’s nickel-plating treatment around the crown/top-land area, intended to improve resistance to knock, high combustion pressure and top-land deformation. HKS also specifies a molybdenum coating. 

2. 94-mm billet crankshaft

This is the heart of the displacement increase.

Stock:

86-mm stroke

HKS:

94-mm stroke

The HKS crank is fully counterweighted. 

3. H-beam connecting rods

The longer stroke requires an appropriately engineered rod/piston/crank combination. HKS supplies high-strength H-beam rods as part of the complete kit. 


Why make a 2JZ bigger?

This is the important engineering philosophy.

Imagine two engines both producing 1,000 hp:

3.0L 2JZ

The turbo has to force a lot of air into 3.0 litres.

3.4L 2JZ

The engine naturally moves about 13% more displacement.

That means the larger engine can produce substantially more airflow and torque for a given boost/turbo combination.

The objective isn’t simply:

“More displacement = more horsepower.”

It’s:

More displacement → more airflow → more torque → less dependence on extreme boost for a given output.

HKS specifically describes its capacity-upgrade philosophy as increasing displacement to produce more low-speed torque and help the turbocharger produce performance. 


Why is this interesting for your E46 2JZ idea?

This is where it gets seriously interesting.

A hypothetical:

E46 + 2JZ-GTE 3.4L

would be very different from a normal 3.0L 2JZ swap.

You would have:

3.35L

large turbo

huge airflow

very high torque

light E46 chassis

The danger isn’t necessarily the engine.

The drivetrain and chassis become the next engineering problem.

You’d need to think about the entire chain:

3.4L 2JZ

→ gearbox

→ clutch

→ prop shaft

→ differential/LSD

→ half-shafts

→ tyres

→ suspension

→ brakes

→ cooling

rather than treating the HKS kit as a standalone horsepower upgrade.


And there’s an important catch

The HKS kit requires cylinder boring/honing. HKS specifies the 87-mm bore and notes that individual blocks may require additional clearance/recess work. 

HKS also gives a 7,500 rpm recommended limit for this kit. Its published in-house result was approximately 1,015 PS and 110 kgf·m, but that is a manufacturer test result, not a guarantee that every engine built with the kit will safely produce that output. 

So this is not a “bolt it in and make 1,000 hp” kit.

It’s the foundation for a properly engineered high-output 2JZ.

In one sentence:

The HKS 3.4L kit turns the 2JZ from a 3.0L high-boost monster into a 3.35L large-displacement turbo platform—giving the turbo more engine to work with, substantially increasing torque potential, while replacing the pistons, rods and crank with components designed for the increased displacement and high-output application. 

For your E46 project, the fascinating question is actually 3.4L HKS 2JZ vs 3.0L B58: the 3.4L 2JZ has a very different torque-generation philosophy from the B58, even before you choose the turbo.


TODA RACING I SECTION STRENGTHENED CONNECTING-RODS FOR CIVIC TYPER INTEGRA TYPER ACCORD EUROR K20A 13210-K20-000

 

TODA RACING I SECTION STRENGTHENED CONNECTING-RODS FOR CIVIC TYPER INTEGRA TYPER ACCORD EUROR K20A 13210-K20-000

TODA RACING I SECTION STRENGTHENED CONNECTING-RODS FOR CIVIC TYPER INTEGRA TYPER ACCORD EUROR K20A 13210-K20-000

The TODA Racing K20A I-Section Strengthened Connecting Rod, part 13210-K20-000, is a serious bottom-end upgrade for the standard-stroke 2.0L K20A. 

TODA lists it specifically for Civic Type R, Integra Type R and Accord Euro R applications. 

What TODA is actually offering

The 13210-K20-000 is:

  • I-section design
  • Chrome-moly construction
  • Fully balanced
  • Fully floating small-end arrangement with bush
  • 139.0 mm center-to-center rod length
  • 22 mm piston-pin diameter
  • Approximately 503 g per rod
  • Supplied as 4 connecting rods for the four-cylinder K20A. 

The important point is that this is not the connecting rod for TODA’s 2150 KIT. The 13210-K20-000 is for the 86 mm standard-stroke K20A configuration

TODA specifies a separate 138 mm rod, part 13210-K20-101-I, for its 90.7 mm-stroke 2150 configuration. 

**Why the rod matters

Think of the K20 connecting rod as the link between:

combustion pressure → piston → connecting rod → crankshaft

At high rpm and cylinder pressure, the rod experiences both:

compression loading

and

tensile/inertial loading

So the objective isn’t simply “stronger metal.” A good performance rod needs the appropriate combination of:

section geometry + material + machining + balancing + piston-pin interface + fastener integrity.

That’s why TODA describes this rod as an I-section chrome-moly, fully balanced and fully floating design. 

Where it fits in a K20 build

For a naturally aspirated high-rpm K20, the rod is one component of the bottom-end equation:

TODA rod

forged piston

crankshaft

rod bearings / clearances

oil supply

balancing

ECU calibration

The rod by itself doesn’t establish a safe horsepower or rpm limit. The entire rotating assembly has to be engineered around the intended application.

TODA itself offers several different K20 bottom-end approaches, including high-compression forged pistons, the 2150 kit, and an 84-mm short-stroke package. 

Its 84-mm package specifically combines forged pistons, an I-section chrome-moly rod and a lightweight crankshaft to pursue faster response and higher-rpm capability. 

For your K20A/Type-R-style project, the interesting comparison is actually:
OEM K20A rod vs TODA 13210-K20-000 vs TODA 2150 I-section rod — because they represent three different bottom-end philosophies.



BMW E46 2JZ VS BMW E46 B58. What are the stakes and how to get there?

 

BMW E46 2JZ VS BMW E46 B58. What are the stakes and how to get there?

This is a much more interesting comparison than simply “which engine is stronger.” An E46 2JZ and E46 B58 are two different philosophies of building the same chassis.

The fundamental difference

2JZ E46: build a brutally capable mechanical machine.

B58 E46: build a modern BMW-like powertrain inside an old BMW chassis.

The second is technically more difficult because the B58 brings considerably more electronics and integration requirements.


1. The 2JZ E46 route

The basic architecture is:

2JZ-GTE → longitudinal manual/automatic transmission → custom driveshaft → E46 differential → rear wheels

The attraction is that you can keep the E46 relatively understandable.

Stage 1 — choose the E46

I’d start with a 330i/325i manual shell, rather than sacrificing a rare M3.

You want:

  • straight chassis
  • good suspension mounting points
  • healthy subframe/rear floor
  • good cooling system condition
  • minimal corrosion
  • complete wiring
  • good brakes

The chassis condition matters more than the original engine.


2. Position the 2JZ correctly

This is one of the most important parts.

You don’t simply ask:

“Can I fit the engine?”

You ask:

“Can I put the engine in the correct location without destroying the E46’s balance?”

You need to determine:

  • engine setback
  • engine height
  • oil-pan clearance
  • steering-rack clearance
  • firewall clearance
  • bonnet clearance
  • turbo position
  • exhaust routing
  • transmission angle

A poorly positioned 2JZ can turn an E46 into a nose-heavy monster.

A carefully positioned one can make a surprisingly coherent car.


3. Transmission becomes a major decision

For the 2JZ, the classic solution is a strong longitudinal manual transmission.

Then:

engine → gearbox → custom prop shaft → differential

You need to engineer:

  • bellhousing/adapter
  • flywheel
  • clutch
  • gearbox mount
  • shifter location
  • driveshaft
  • differential
  • half-shafts

And this is where your power target becomes important.

A 400–500 hp street car and a 800+ hp drag-oriented car are completely different projects.


4. B58 E46

Now the fun part.

The B58 route is:

B58 → modern BMW transmission → custom driveshaft → E46 differential

But there is a major difference.

The B58 doesn’t just want to run.

It wants to communicate.

You have:

  • engine ECU
  • electronic throttle
  • direct injection
  • VANOS
  • Valvetronic
  • electronic sensors
  • transmission controller
  • CAN bus
  • immobilizer/security
  • DSC/ABS
  • instrument cluster
  • fuel control
  • cooling control

That’s why the B58 swap can be mechanically easier in some respects but electronically harder.


5. Why B58 makes an extraordinary E46

The B58’s biggest advantage isn’t simply horsepower.

It’s power density + response + modern control.

You potentially get:

3.0L I6

modern turbocharging

direct injection

Valvetronic

Double-VANOS

modern ECU

modern automatic transmission possibilities

inside a chassis that weighs dramatically less than modern M cars.

That combination is potentially very serious.


6. The hidden enemy: electronics

This is where the B58 project can become expensive.

A 2JZ can essentially be treated as:

engine + standalone ECU

A B58 wants to be treated as:

engine + ECU + transmission + CAN network + security + vehicle systems

You therefore need to decide very early:

Route A — standalone ECU

Simplifies some integration but potentially loses or complicates OEM functionality.

Route B — OEM BMW electronics

Potentially gives you much better integration, but requires considerably more engineering around the donor electronics.

For a sophisticated B58 E46, I’d favour using as much compatible OEM powertrain electronics as practical, rather than trying to make the entire engine behave like an old standalone racing engine.


7. Cooling becomes critical

Both cars need serious cooling once modified.

For either build:

radiator

intercooler

engine oil cooler

power-steering cooling

transmission cooling

should be considered as one thermal system.

But the B58 has an advantage in thermal-management sophistication.

The 2JZ has an advantage in simplicity and accessibility.


8. The real stakes: chassis

This is where people often get the swap backwards.

Suppose you build:

700 hp + 700 Nm

but leave the E46 with mediocre:

  • suspension
  • tyres
  • brakes
  • differential
  • bushings
  • cooling
  • chassis reinforcement

You haven’t built a 700-hp E46.

You’ve built an E46 carrying a 700-hp problem.

The chassis must evolve with the engine.


9. The differential is particularly important

You want the drivetrain to behave as one system:

engine torque

gearbox

prop shaft

LSD

half-shafts

tyres

The LSD becomes especially important because an E46 with serious turbo torque can overwhelm an open differential very quickly.

For a road/spirited-drive build, I would prioritize predictable LSD behaviour over simply selecting the strongest possible differential.


10. What does each car become?

2JZ E46

Character:

old-school + brutal + mechanical

You get:

  • huge tuning ecosystem
  • excellent high-power potential
  • simple engine-management philosophy
  • distinctive turbo character
  • relatively straightforward aftermarket support

But:

  • heavy engine
  • older combustion technology
  • less refined
  • more heat at high output
  • more difficult to achieve modern drivability
  • potentially more front weight


B58 E46

Character:

OEM+ × Frankenstein × modern M-car

You potentially get:

  • excellent low/mid-range torque
  • sophisticated engine management
  • modern turbo response
  • excellent drivability
  • high power density
  • modern transmission possibilities
  • much more refined power delivery

But:

  • much greater electronic complexity
  • donor-car dependency
  • CAN-bus problems
  • immobilizer/security integration
  • expensive troubleshooting
  • specialist calibration requirements


11. The three levels I’d consider

Level 1 — sensible street weapon

400–500 hp

This is where I’d start.

You don’t need to chase enormous numbers.

The objective becomes:

light E46 + strong torque + excellent suspension + excellent tyres + reliable cooling

This could be an extraordinarily entertaining car.


Level 2 — serious fast road

500–650 hp

Now the supporting systems become substantially more important.

I’d expect:

  • serious cooling
  • upgraded fuel system
  • upgraded clutch/transmission
  • LSD
  • stronger driveshaft
  • serious brakes
  • suspension tuning
  • chassis reinforcement
  • proper engine management

At this level, the car stops being an ordinary modified E46.


Level 3 — extreme build

700+ hp

Now the question changes from:

“How much power can the engine make?”

to:

“How much power can the entire vehicle exploit?”

Tyres, differential, gearbox, driveshaft, cooling, suspension and chassis become the limiting system.


12. The most interesting choice

If your priority is the legendary build, I’d choose:

2JZ E46

because the engine itself becomes the centrepiece.

If your priority is:

maximum modern performance from an E46 chassis

I’d investigate:

B58 E46

because the combination of modern turbo technology and the relatively light E46 chassis is conceptually extremely strong.

But I would not start with the engine.

I’d start with the target vehicle:

E46 + target weight + target power + target gearbox + target differential + target use

Then work backwards.


The ultimate build philosophy

For a car intended for street + spirited driving + occasional circuit use, I wouldn’t chase 1,000 hp.

I’d rather build something like:

E46

→ lightweight but properly equipped

B58 or 2JZ around 450–550 hp

→ strong LSD

→ properly matched suspension

→ excellent brakes

→ appropriate tyre

→ optimized cooling

→ excellent ECU calibration

→ modest aero

→ strong chassis

That gives you something far more interesting than a dyno-number car:

a lightweight BMW with modern six-cylinder turbo power and enough traction/chassis capability to actually use it.

And that’s where the 2JZ E46 vs B58 E46 debate becomes fascinating: 2JZ is the more iconic engine swap; B58 potentially makes the more integrated modern performance machine.