RACING FACTORY YAMAMOTO SARD SPORTS CATALYZER FOR HONDA S2000 ABA AP2 F22C 6MT RACING-FACTORY-YAMAMOTO-00012

 

RACING FACTORY YAMAMOTO SARD SPORTS CATALYZER FOR HONDA S2000 ABA AP2 F22C 6MT RACING-FACTORY-YAMAMOTO-00012

✅ What the SARD Sports Catalyzer is / What it claims

• The “Sports Catalyzer” line from SARD is described as a “high-flow / performance catalytic converter,” designed to improve exhaust flow compared to stock catalytic converters — while still maintaining emissions-control function rather than being a straight pipe.  
• According to one write-up for the S2000 version: the SARD Sports CAT uses large-cell (e.g. 200 cpsi) metal-honeycomb catalyst cores that are heat-resistant (rated up to ~1200 °C) and aims for “high power and high response, but also environmentally friendly, with high purification performance that exceeds safety standards.”  
• Construction typically involves stainless-steel piping (SUS304 or similar), appropriate flanges and heat shields.  
• The catalyzer kit normally includes the catalytic unit, gaskets and fixings for bolt-on installation (though depending on market/region it may be build-to-order). 

So in short: this is an aftermarket “sport-cat / high-flow cat” intended as an upgrade replacement for the stock catalytic converter — keeping emissions compliance but improving exhaust flow and throttle response vs stock.

⚙️ Compatibility with S2000 AP2 (F22C 6MT)

• Your specified car, AP2 with F22C (2156 cc, 242 PS / 221 Nm per spec)  
• There is a version of SARD / aftermarket sports catalyzer listed for S2000 AP2. For instance, one listing shows “SARD SPORTS CATALYZER For HONDA S2000 AP2 89068” — which matches AP2 platform.  
• So from a parts-fitment perspective, this is a legitimate known upgrade path for AP2 — not strictly only for older AP1 (F20C), but also AP2 (F22C).  

⚠️ However: previous discussions among S2000 owners suggest that some aftermarket cats (or high-flow cats / test pipes) on AP2 sometimes encounter clearance issues under the chassis or exhaust tunnel — due to AP2’s “modified tunnel design.” 

So installation may require careful fitment check (or possibly slight modifications / confirm with shop doing it).

🏎️ Performance & Practical Considerations — What You Gain / Trade-offs

✅ Potential Benefits

• A high-flow sports cat like SARD tends to reduce exhaust restriction compared to stock — which can improve exhaust scavenging, potentially giving a slight bump in throttle response, mid-to-high rpm performance, and maybe a small horsepower/tq gain (especially noticeable if you have other exhaust or engine mods). This is generally the “point” of performance cats.  
• Compared to a straight pipe (no cat), a sports cat keeps catalytic action — meaning it still helps reduce pollutants (CO, NOₓ, etc.), which is a compromise between performance and emissions compliance.  
• If your existing stock cat is old, clogged, or degraded, replacing with a good aftermarket cat might restore some of the “lost” performance and maintain proper exhaust flow.

⚠️ What to Watch Out For / Possible Downsides

• On an otherwise stock (or lightly modified) engine, gains from a high-flow cat may be modest — sometimes barely noticeable. High-flow cats tend to show more benefit when the engine is already modified (headers, exhaust, higher output).  
• On AP2 S2000, there have historically been clearance/tunnel-fitment issues when installing aftermarket cats or exhausts; you may need a professional exhaust/welding shop familiar with S2000 to ensure proper fitment.  
• While still more “legal” than a straight pipe, depending on your local emissions laws — aftermarket high-flow cats may or may not comply with local regulations. This varies by country / state. As a theoretical risk: altered emissions compliance or detection of O₂-sensor / emissions issues if the catalyst behaves differently.  
• As with all aftermarket exhaust/cat mods: you may need to check for potential check-engine lights (especially if engine management / fueling / O₂ sensors are sensitive), especially if you combine with other mods (header, exhaust, tune, forced induction).  

🎯 When It Makes Sense to Use This Part — What’s the Use-Case

The SARD sports cat (or any high-flow cat) tends to make sense in these scenarios:

• You have a tuned or modified S2000 (headers, high-flow exhaust, maybe mild engine mods) — where exhaust flow is a limiting factor.
• You want a compromise between “straight pipe” sound/performance and “stock-cat emissions compliance.”
• Your stock catalytic converter is old / clogged / damaged and you want a fresh, high-quality replacement that might improve throttle response.
• You are okay (or prepared) to check clearances and perhaps pay for professional installation given AP2’s potential fitment issues.

If your car is basically stock — engine, exhaust, fueling — then the benefit may be marginal, and you might not “feel” much difference.

✅ The Take

• It is a valid and known aftermarket upgrade for S2000 AP2 to replace the stock catalytic converter.
• It can offer improved exhaust flow and possibly better throttle/exhaust response — especially beneficial if the car isn’t stock.
• But you should be aware of potential installation/clearance complications (given AP2’s chassis layout) — might need shop fabrication or careful alignment.
• If the car is stock or lightly modified, the gains are likely to be modest.

RACING FACTORY YAMAMOTO SARD SPORTS CATALYZER FOR HONDA S2000 ABA AP2 F22C 6MT RACING-FACTORY-YAMAMOTO-00012

 

AIRTEC Motorsport Inlet Manifold for Focus ST and RS Mk3 201487

Here are the main advantages of installing the AIRTEC Motorsport Inlet Manifolds for — i.e. what you gain by upgrading from the stock manifold on a Mk3 Ford Focus ST Mk3 / Ford Focus RS Mk3. 

✅ Key Benefits of This Inlet Manifold Upgrade

• Better Airflow & More Responsive Throttle

• The AIRTEC manifold is cast from aluminium instead of the stock plastic, and is engineered for improved internal airflow.  
• This smoother/more efficient flow helps the engine “breathe” more effectively — which typically leads to sharper throttle response and improved engine behavior compared to stock intake geometry.  

• Stronger & More Durable Construction

• Compared with the original plastic manifold, the AIRTEC unit’s cast-aluminium build is inherently more robust and heat-resistant.  
• That can mean longer service life, better reliability under high-load / high-heat conditions (e.g. spirited driving or track use), and reduced risk of manifold warping or failure under stress.  

• OEM-Fit & Easy Install (No Major Mods Needed)

• The manifold is a “direct replacement” — it uses the original throttle body, pipework, vacuum line mounts, and mounting points.  
• That means installation should be straightforward and doesn’t require extensive modifications, making it a convenient bolt-on upgrade for many owners.  

• Supports Future Upgrades / Higher Power Builds

• The manifold includes extra injector/ fuel-rail provisions (“port injector bosses + fuel rail fittings”).  
• If you plan to add more modifications (bigger turbo, more fuel, extra tune, etc.), this manifold gives you a reliable base — saving you from port-matching or custom fuel-rail fabrication later.  

• Better Engine Efficiency & Potential Gains with Further Modifications

• By improving airflow dynamics (smoother air distribution into cylinders), a good intake manifold helps fuel/air mixture consistency — which can lead to more efficient combustion and thus better power delivery, especially at higher RPMs/under load.  
• While just swapping the manifold alone won’t necessarily yield massive power gains, the improved base airflow sets you up for better results when combined with other engine/turbo mods (fuel, tune, exhaust, etc.). 

⚠️ When / Why the Benefits Matter Most (And What to Realistically Expect)

• The improvements are most noticeable when you push the engine — hard acceleration, high load, higher revs, or if you plan upgrades (turbo, fueling, tuning). On mild or stock setup, gains may be modest, mostly in throttle feel and engine smoothness.
• Because of the extra injector bosses / fuel-rail potential, you’ll only see their benefit if you actually upgrade fuel delivery or add power mods. For a stock car, they’re mostly “future-proofing.”
• As with many upgrades: quality (good installation, correct gaskets, proper sealing) matters — to get airflow gains and avoid vacuum leaks or uneven cylinder airflow.

AIRTEC Motorsport Inlet Manifold for Focus ST and RS Mk3 201487

HONDA TAILGATE SPOILER CARBON FOR HONDA CIVIC TYPE R FL5 08F02-T60-000A

 

HONDA TAILGATE SPOILER CARBON FOR HONDA CIVIC TYPE R FL5 08F02-T60-000A

The benefits are a mix of performance, handling, appearance, and weight. Here’s a breakdown:

✅ Key Advantages of a Carbon Tailgate/Spoiler on FL5 Civic Type R

• Improved Aerodynamics & Downforce — A properly designed spoiler improves airflow over the car at speed, generating downforce on the rear axle. This helps “plant” the rear end, improving stability under high speeds, reducing lift, and enhancing traction especially when cornering.  
• Better High-Speed Stability and Handling — With increased rear-end downforce and reduced lift, the car becomes more stable and predictable during fast driving or rapid direction changes. This is especially valuable for a performance car like the Type R.  
• Weight Reduction (vs heavier materials) — Carbon fiber is much lighter than many conventional materials, so a carbon spoiler can reduce the overall “unsprung” or “rear-end” weight compared to heavier alternatives. Lighter weight helps handling and responsiveness.  
• Durability & Strength — Despite being lightweight, carbon fiber is strong and durable. A high-quality carbon spoiler can withstand the stresses of everyday driving or spirited driving better than cheaper, brittle materials.  
• Aesthetic & Visual Appeal — Carbon fiber gives a high-end, sporty look — often with visible weave, gloss finish, and aggressive styling that matches the performance character of the Type R. This can make the car look more “track-ready” or premium even at a glance.  
• OEM Fitment (for purpose-built spoilers) — Spoilers designed for the FL5 (like official or aftermarket carbon ones) are engineered to bolt on seamlessly without extensive modifications, preserving the clean lines of the car’s body.  

⚠️ Considerations & When the Benefits Matter Most

• The aerodynamic and handling gains are most noticeable at higher speeds (e.g. highway speeds or track driving), where airflow and downforce make a bigger difference.  
• For city driving at low speeds or casual driving, the performance benefits may be minimal — the advantage is then more about look, build-quality, and weight savings rather than dramatic handling gains.
• Quality matters: a well-made carbon spoiler (good weave, proper resin/coating, correct mounting hardware) will give the best longevity, aerodynamic performance, and appearance.  

HONDA TAILGATE SPOILER CARBON FOR HONDA CIVIC TYPE R FL5 08F02-T60-000A

Extracting +100HP from VW MK5- MK8

 

Straight to the point. Below is a no-nonsense, road-and-track plan to reliably extract ~+100 HP from VW Mk5 → Mk8 platforms, plus the best race/track upgrades you must do to make the power usable and reliable.

Zooming about the common turbo 2.0-litre TSI/TFSI (EA113 / EA888 families) that power most GTI/R and many VWs. If you have a non-turbo engine (NA 1.8/2.0 or VR6) the realistic path to +100 HP is different (usually forced induction or full engine swap).

Quick headline (no fluff)

1. Tune the ECU (stage 1 → stage 2) — biggest bang-for-buck.
2. High-flow downpipe + intake + intercooler — next biggest gains and enable safe tune.
3. Turbo upgrade or hybrid (stage 2+) if you want a full +100 reliably on stock fuel/hardware.
4. Fueling/supports (injectors / HPFP / fuel pump), exhaust, clutch/DSG and cooling to make it durable.
5. Brakes, suspension, diff, tires to put the power to ground on street and track.

I’ll list what to do in priority order (cheap → expensive) and then give platform-specific notes.

Priority upgrade path to ~+100 HP (practical sequence)

1. Good ECU flash / Stage 1 tune (shop or vendor)
   
• Many EA888 cars gain +40–80 HP just from a conservative map if the stock turbo can support it. Tuna vendors: APR, Unitronic, APR/Unitronic/Go-APR stage pages show big gains from software on MQB cars.  
• If you only do one thing for cost-effectiveness, do a reputable stage 1 tune.
2. High-flow downpipe (3”) — catless or high-flow cat (where legal)
   
• Downpipe + tune unlocks large mid/high RPM gains and is required to reach +100 reliably on many tunes. Popular brands: APR, Milltek, CTS, BillyBoat. Expect big intake/exhaust flow improvement.  
3. Big front-mount intercooler / charge piping
   
• Lowers intake temps to avoid knock, sustain power on track and lets the tune push boost safely. Brands: APR, Wagner, ETS. Intercooler is essential for repeatable +100hp.  
4. Intake / high-flow intake manifold & turbo inlet
   
• Cheap, small gains, but helps spool and reduces restriction when combined with tune.
5. Fueling upgrades if required (higher-flow injectors / HPFP / pump)
   
• Particularly important on higher power Stage 2+ maps or when upgrading turbo. Many Stage 2+ tunes explicitly require upgraded injectors / fuel pump.
6. Turbo upgrade (hybrid or full bigger turbo)
   
• To reliably hit +100hp across RPM and still be streetable you usually need a turbo that supports the target flow (GTX/K04/hybrid/IS38/IS20 depending on platform). Unitronic/APR Stage2+ packages use larger turbos and claim +100+ HP gains.  
7. Downstream exhaust (3” cat-back) and proper tune for the turbo choice
   
• Ensures flow, helps spool and keeps backpressure low.
8. Drivetrain & reliability mods
   
• Clutch / dual-mass flywheel replacement (or DSG reinforcement software/hardware). If you add +100 HP, stock clutch/DMF will likely fail.
• Upgraded motor mounts and dogbone for better traction and drivability.
9. Cooling and oiling
   
• Bigger radiator, oil cooler (track use), and attention to engine oil grade — especially for repeated track laps.

Best race components to upgrade for street & track (ordered by impact)

• ECU tune (reputable vendor: APR, Unitronic, Revo, 034) — foundation.  
• Turbo / turbo kit (stage-specific: K04 swaps on older 2.0T, IS38/GTX hybrid / GT-series on MQB) — needed to exceed what stock turbo safely delivers.  
• 3” high-flow downpipe (race cat / catless where street legal) — big power unlock.  
• Large front-mount intercooler (APR, Wagner, ETS) — for consistent power and knock prevention.  
• Injectors & HPFP upgrade (if tune demands) — avoid lean conditions.
• High-flow intake & charge piping — reduce restriction.
• Performance exhaust (3”) — supports flow and sound; match to DP size.
• Clutch / flywheel / DSG upgrades — to handle torque.
• Coilovers / performance dampers + sway bars + bushings — make the car predictable on track.
• Big brake kit (slotted/drilled rotors, better pads, stainless lines) — mandatory for track safety.
• Limited slip differential (VAQ / Quaife / OEM LSD) — keeps power usable exiting corners.
• High-performance tires (DOT track tires or semi-slicks for track) — arguably the single most important handling upgrade.
• Lightweight wheels (stiff + lower rotating mass) — helps acceleration and braking.

Quick platform notes (Mk5 → Mk8): what’s typical & the obvious paths

• Mk5 (Golf V / 1K platform; EA113 2.0T, 1.8T early)
  
• Common route: K04 conversion or upgraded turbo + stage tune + intercooler + DP. K04 swaps are well-trodden for +80–120hp if supporting fuel and cooling are done. (See community guides).  
• Mk6 (Golf VI; later EA113 / early EA888)
  
• Similar to Mk5: tune + DP + intercooler = big gains; K04 hybrids possible. 034Motorsport/APR have stage software for EA113/EA888.  
• Mk7 (EA888 Gen3, MQB)
  
• Stock turbo is strong. Stage 1 + downpipe + intake + intercooler often nets +60–100 HP depending on stage and car. For stable +100HP across the band, IS38 / GTI R turbo swaps or stage 2+ kits are common; Unitronic/APR show Stage2+ with larger turbo delivering +100+.  
• Mk8 (EA888 Gen4 / EVO)
  
• Newer engines tolerate big tuning but many vendors already offer Stage 1/2/2+ packages—often achievable +100HP with a tuned IS38/GTX kit, DP, intercooler, fueling. Check vendor stage pages for exact numbers (they frequently advertise Stage2+ numbers).  

Real-world numbers & costs (ballpark)

• Stage 1 tune only: +30–80 HP — cost: USD $600–1,500 (shop + tune).
• Tune + DP + intake + intercooler (Stage 2 style): +70–110 HP — parts + labor: USD $2,000–6,000 depending on brands and labor.  
• Full turbo upgrade kit + fuel + tune (reliable +100+ HP): USD $4,000–10,000+ including injectors, HPFP, supporting hardware and labor.

(Prices depend heavily on country/brand and whether you do DIY or shop installs.)

Street vs Track tradeoffs (short)

• Street focus: aim for drivability — smaller turbo or hybrid, conservative spool, reliable tune, good street brakes, comfort suspension. Keep emissions legal parts if required.
• Track focus: go bigger turbo, aggressive tune, oil/engine cooling, oil catch can, stiffer suspension, race pads and fluid, DOT-approved track tires. Expect reduced daily comfort and more maintenance

Do’s and Don’ts — quick, practical

Do:

• Start with a reputable tuner and conservative map for your hardware level.
• Replace clutch if torque goes above stock capability.
• Upgrade intercooler before asking for big boost increases.

Don’t:

• Bolt a big turbo on and run a stock fueling or clutch expecting OEM longevity.
• Assume every +100 HP route will be cheap or emissions-legal where you live.
• Skip cooling/oil upgrades if you’ll track the car.

Sources / reading (to confirm parts & stage numbers)

• Vendor stage pages (APR, Unitronic) showing stage2/2+ gains for EA888/MQB cars.  
• Performance downpipe listings / vendors (Milltek/ECS/CTS) — downpipes are a major hp unlock.  
• Intercooler upgrade suppliers and fitment notes (Wagner, APR).  
• Community writeups and K04 conversion threads for Mk5/Mk6 context.